Classic and collector cars

Classic car pre-purchase inspection in Atlanta and Orlando

We inspect classic and collector cars before you buy them, wherever the car is parked: a seller's garage, a dealer's lot or a storage unit. The technician:

  • goes over the body panel by panel;
  • checks the frame and underside for rust;
  • checks the engine bay, brakes, steering and tires;
  • drives the car when it runs safely and the seller allows it.

What you get:

  • a photo report with a video walk-through;
  • written answers to your areas of concern (up to 3 on Enhanced, up to 6 on Elite);
  • non-binding repair-cost ranges for the issues we find;
  • a negotiation leverage summary when the findings support one.

Which package: classic and collector cars go on our Enhanced ($399) or Elite ($649) inspection. If you enter a model year before 1981, our order page won't let you choose Essential. For a collector car built later, we recommend Enhanced or Elite.

What we don't do: we don't appraise the car, we don't verify that it's numbers-matching, and we don't confirm a model such as a Z/28 from the VIN. Nobody can confirm a 1969 Z/28 from the VIN alone. We explain why below.

Book a classic car inspectionWhen you book, enter the car's ZIP to confirm it's in our Atlanta or Orlando service area.
What we check

What we check on a classic

Identity

  • We record the VIN.
  • We check the VIN plate and look it over.
  • If the seller shows us the title or registration, we compare the VIN with it.

Paint and body: Accident Investigation, included on Enhanced and Elite

  • The technician goes over the body panel by panel: fenders, doors, hood, roof, trunk lid, quarter panels and rockers. He also checks how the panels line up with each other.
  • Signs of repaint, body filler or earlier repair are written up on the panel where he finds them.
  • We check each panel for repaint and body filler. He records a paint-gauge reading where he takes one; we don't promise a reading on every panel. A steel gauge can't read fiberglass or aluminum panels.
  • Rust on the body and underneath is noted where we find it.

Underneath (inspected where the car is parked)

  • Frame or subframe condition.
  • Exhaust, shocks and springs, control arms, ball joints and tie rods, and the rear axle.

Under the hood

  • Engine bay condition, belts, radiator and fluids.
  • Leaks: oil, coolant, transmission and differential.

Running and driving

  • Start-up, and how the engine runs.
  • A road test that covers engine performance, shifting, braking, steering and suspension. It happens when four things are true: the car starts, it runs safely, it is legal and insured to drive, and the seller allows it.

Brakes, steering and tires

  • Disc brake pads are measured where they can be seen. Drum brakes are checked for how they work on the road test, not measured.
  • Steering and suspension, including how the car behaves on the road.
  • Tread depth on every tire, plus tire brand and size.

Inside

  • Interior trim, seats, carpet and headliner, plus the convertible top if the car has one.
  • Headlights, tail lights and horn, plus the heater and A/C where fitted.

What you receive

  • A written report with photos (60+ on Enhanced, 80+ on Elite) and a video walk-through (a summary on Enhanced, a detailed one on Elite).
  • Written answers to your areas of concern: up to 3 on Enhanced, up to 6 on Elite.
  • Non-binding repair-cost ranges for the issues we find. A negotiation leverage summary when the findings support one. Neither is an appraisal.
  • A call with the inspector:
    • Enhanced: a 15-minute call you can request.
    • Elite: a 30-minute priority consultation plus a follow-up.
The scan

The diagnostic scan on older cars

Diagnostic scan availability varies by make and year. Vehicles from 1995 and earlier, including most classics, predate the standard diagnostic port, so the scan may not run at all; on those cars the engine is checked mechanically instead.

On a classic, then, the answers come from the technician rather than a computer:

  • how the car starts and runs;
  • what is leaking;
  • the condition of the belts, radiator and fluids;
  • how it drives on the road test.

The EPA has required the standard OBD-II diagnostic system on all passenger vehicles since the 1996 model year. Some 1994–95 cars already had it, which is why we say the scan "may not" run.

How it works

How it works

  1. Book Enhanced or Elite.
    • Give us the year, make and model, plus the VIN if you have it.
    • Use your areas of concern to tell us what matters most: a rust bubble in the listing photos, a leak the seller mentioned, or a noise on start-up.
  2. We confirm the appointment. A travel fee may apply, depending on where the car is. We confirm it with you before the inspection.
  3. Our technician comes to the car.
    • We're mobile, so we don't bring a lift. The underside is inspected where the car is parked.
    • Nothing is taken apart, and no paint or filler is removed.
  4. Start-up and road test.
    • Many classics are sold unregistered, delivered on a trailer or after years in storage, so the drive doesn't always happen.
  5. Your report and call. You get:
    • photos, video and written findings;
    • answers to your areas of concern;
    • non-binding repair-cost ranges for the issues we find;
    • a negotiation leverage summary when the findings support one;
    • a call with the inspector.
Which tier

Why classics go on Enhanced or Elite

If you enter a model year before 1981, our order page won't let you choose Essential. For a collector car built later, such as a 1987 Buick Grand National, we recommend Enhanced or Elite for the same reasons:

  • Essential has a basic paint and body review. It leaves out Accident Investigation and the Panel-by-Panel Repaint & Body Filler Check.
  • Essential doesn't include Repair Cost Range Guidance or the Negotiation Leverage Summary.
  • On 1995-and-older cars the scan may not run at all, so the written findings and photos carry more of the weight.

Enhanced or Elite?

What Elite adds over Enhanced: more photos (80+) and a detailed video walk-through, up to 6 areas of concern answered in writing, a 30-minute priority consultation with follow-up, Priority Scheduling included, a report by 11:59 PM Eastern on inspection day or $99 back, and one re-inspection credit valid for 60 days after your inspection.

Enhanced ($399)Elite ($649)
Photos60+80+
Video walk-throughSummaryDetailed
Areas of concern answered in writingUp to 3Up to 6
Call with the inspector15 minutes, on request30-minute priority consultation + follow-up
Priority schedulingOptional add-onIncluded
Re-inspection creditNot included1 credit, valid for 60 days after your inspection, if the seller fixes something and you want it verified

Choose Elite when the price is high, when you're buying sight unseen, or when you have more questions than Enhanced's three areas of concern cover.

The VIN

Can the VIN prove a 1969 Camaro is a real Z/28?

No. We can't, and neither can anyone else from the VIN alone, because the 1969 Camaro VIN doesn't record the Z/28 package. As the Camaro Research Group puts it: "The VIN does not tell if the car is a Z28, SS, RS, etc."

A 1969 Camaro VIN is 13 characters long. For example, a V8 coupe built at Norwood starts 124379N.

CharactersExampleMeans
11Chevrolet
22Camaro
33 or 4Six-cylinder or V8
4–537 or 67Coupe or convertible
691969
7N or LNorwood, Ohio, or Los Angeles (Van Nuys), California
8–13500001 and up (for example 5xxxxx or 6xxxxx)Build sequence

That means the VIN can rule a car out, but it can never rule one in:

  • A VIN that starts 123 belongs to a car built with a six-cylinder engine, and a six-cylinder Camaro was never a Z/28.
  • A VIN that starts 124 only tells you the car left the factory as a V8.

We've inspected a 1969 Camaro that wore SS and Z/28 badges although its VIN showed a six-cylinder build. We found it by reading the VIN plate against the badges. It isn't a model check we offer: we don't confirm a model or package from the VIN.

Free online decoders won't fill the gap. NHTSA's VIN decoder rejects model years before 1981, when the 17-character VIN standard began.

A Z/28 claim rests on a chain of evidence, and every link in it can be copied:

  • The trim tag on the firewall. Depending on where and when the car was built, the tag may or may not carry a Z/28 code, so a missing code doesn't settle the question either way.
  • The engine stamp. The 1969 Z/28's 302 carries the suffix code DZ on a machined pad at the front of the block, and a partial VIN is stamped on the block as well. If the block was machined during a rebuild, the stamp can be lost.
  • The drivetrain. In 1969 the Z/28 came only with a four-speed manual transmission.
  • Documents, such as the Protect-O-Plate or the build sheet, when they survive. Reproduction Protect-O-Plates exist.
  • GM's own records don't settle it. For 1967–69 Camaros, GM kept only the dealer the car was shipped to and the production date, not the options.

Hagerty, reporting Corvette expert Kevin Mackay's explanation, summed it up: the term "numbers matching" means "the tags match the numbers stamped on the engine and transmission. All can be faked."

What we do:

  • We record the VIN.
  • We check the VIN plate and look it over.
  • We compare the VIN with the title or registration when the seller shows it.
  • We inspect the car's condition.

What we don't do today: we don't decode trim tags or engine stamps, and we don't tell you whether a car is numbers-matching. If the Z/28 claim is a big part of the price, have a Camaro specialist authenticate it as well.

Limits

What we don't do

  • We don't appraise. We give no market, insurance or agreed value. Our repair-cost ranges and negotiation leverage summary aren't an appraisal either.
  • We don't authenticate originality. That means no numbers-matching verdict, no decoding of trim tags or engine stamps, and no authentication of documents.
  • We don't confirm a model or package (Z/28, SS, RS) from the VIN.
  • We don't bring a lift.
  • We don't run compression, leak-down, vacuum or timing tests as part of the inspection.
  • We don't take anything apart, and we don't remove paint or filler.
  • We don't pull brake drums.
  • We aren't a single-make restoration specialist. When originality is most of the price, bring one in to authenticate the car. We cover its condition.
Good to know

Worth knowing before you buy a classic

  • A magnet only works on steel panels. A paint-thickness gauge with a magnetic mode reads paint over steel, and one with an eddy-current (non-ferrous) mode reads it over aluminum. A fiberglass body, like a classic Corvette's, needs an ultrasonic gauge.
  • A high reading at a seam doesn't always mean hidden damage. On a 1969 Camaro, for example, the factory used lead at the seam between the roof and the quarter panel. Lead isn't magnetic, so a magnet or a steel gauge reads it much as it reads filler.
  • Deep tread doesn't mean the tires are young:
    • The last four digits of the DOT code on the sidewall give the week and year the tire was made.
    • Tires made before 2000 use a three-digit code, which means the tire is more than 25 years old.
    • NHTSA notes that some vehicle and tire makers recommend replacing tires at 6 to 10 years, regardless of tread.
  • In Georgia the paperwork on an older car may be a bill of sale:
    • A title isn't required for vehicles from the 1962 model year and older. An optional Conditional Title has been available for them since July 2019.
    • Titles are optional for 1963–1985 vehicles, but only from an existing title chain. Source: Georgia Department of Revenue. Your county tag office can confirm what your car needs.
  • Insuring a classic doesn't always need an appraisal. Hagerty says: "We typically do not require appraisals."
Frequently asked questions

Classic car inspection FAQ

Do you appraise classic cars?

No. We don't appraise classic cars or give a market, insurance or agreed value, and our report isn't an appraisal. The report tells you the car's condition and gives non-binding repair-cost ranges for the issues we find, so you can decide what the repairs mean for your offer. If you need a value for insurance, ask your insurer first. Hagerty, for example, says it typically doesn't require appraisals.

Do you specialize in classic cars?

Classic and collector cars are a regular part of our work. Recent ones include 1967–69 Camaros, a 1969 Firebird, 1965 and 1967 Corvettes, a 1957 Bel Air and a 1952 Dodge truck. They go on our Enhanced or Elite inspection. We aren't a single-make specialist, though. If originality is most of the price, add a specialist in that make to authenticate the car, and we'll cover its condition.

What does a classic car inspection include?
  • Identity: we record the VIN, check the VIN plate, and compare the VIN with the paperwork the seller shows us.
  • Paint and body: Accident Investigation, with the Panel-by-Panel Repaint & Body Filler Check.
  • Underneath: rust and the frame.
  • Under the hood: the engine bay and any leaks.
  • Running: start-up, and a road test when it's allowed.
  • Chassis: brakes, steering, suspension and tires.
  • Inside: the interior and the lights.

You get photos, a video walk-through, written answers to your areas of concern, repair-cost ranges for the issues we find, and a negotiation leverage summary when the findings support one.

Diagnostic scan availability varies by make and year. Vehicles from 1995 and earlier, including most classics, predate the standard diagnostic port, so the scan may not run at all; on those cars the engine is checked mechanically instead.

Do you check for excess body filler?

Yes. Enhanced and Elite include our Panel-by-Panel Repaint & Body Filler Check. The technician looks at each body panel for signs of repaint, body filler or earlier repair, and writes up what he finds on that panel. Our technicians have found excess filler on a lower fender where a magnet wouldn't hold, and heavy filler low on a door.

He records a paint-gauge reading where he takes one; we don't promise a reading on every panel. A steel gauge can't read a fiberglass body. Gauge readings are taken at points, so no check that leaves the paint on can prove a whole panel is free of filler. If filler would end the deal for you, have a body shop confirm it.

Can you verify a 1969 Camaro is a real Z/28 from the VIN?

No. Nobody can from the VIN alone, because the 1969 Camaro VIN doesn't record the Z/28 package. The VIN can rule a car out, since one that starts 123 was built with a six-cylinder engine and was never a Z/28, but it can't rule one in.

We record the VIN, check the VIN plate, and compare the VIN with the paperwork. We don't decode trim tags or engine stamps, and we don't verify numbers-matching. For a car priced as a Z/28, have a Camaro specialist authenticate it.

Do you put the car on a lift, and do you drive it?

We don't bring a lift. We're mobile, and we inspect the underside where the car is parked. We drive the car when it starts, runs safely, is legal and insured to drive, and the seller allows it.

Will you run a diagnostic scan on my classic?

Probably not, if it was built in 1995 or earlier. Diagnostic scan availability varies by make and year. Vehicles from 1995 and earlier, including most classics, predate the standard diagnostic port, so the scan may not run at all; on those cars the engine is checked mechanically instead.

Which inspection package do I need for a classic?

Enhanced or Elite. If you enter a model year before 1981, our order page won't let you choose Essential. For a collector car built later, we recommend Enhanced or Elite.

Compared with Enhanced, Elite adds:

  • more photos and a detailed video walk-through;
  • more areas of concern;
  • a longer priority call;
  • priority scheduling;
  • a re-inspection credit, valid for 60 days, if the seller fixes something and you want it verified.
Do you verify numbers-matching or originality?

Not today. Our inspection records the car's condition, not its originality. We don't decode trim tags, engine stamps or casting numbers, and we don't authenticate documents such as a build sheet or a Protect-O-Plate. Tags, stamps and Protect-O-Plates can all be faked or reproduced, which is why authentication is specialist work.

Do you do a compression or leak-down test?

No, not as part of the inspection. We check how the engine starts, runs and performs on the road, and we look for leaks. If you want a compression test, arrange it with a shop.

What if the car hasn't run in years or isn't registered?

We can still inspect it. If it won't start or can't legally be driven, we inspect everything we can with the car parked.

How much does a classic car inspection cost?

Enhanced is $399 and Elite is $649. A travel fee may apply, depending on where the car is. We confirm it with you before the inspection.

Buying a classic car?

Book your inspection.